Consequently, conclusions drawn will be more accurate using the test light. Incandescent bulbs provide a bigger electrical load in the circuit being tested than a multi-meter does. I would use a test light with an incandescent bulb. My breakaway switch gets its power from them.Ĭhecking wire continuity with a volt / ohmmeter is not necessarily the best tool to use. I have a small travel trailer with two 6 volt batteries mounted on the tongue. Yes, you can run your breakaway switch from you trailer battery source. I don't have the answer about the best way to change the battery supplied charging circuit to a switched accessory circuit, but I think I can shed some light on the a couple of other things you mention. What would one of those expensive Redarc units do to help this? It seems the alternator is giving 14.4V always, and doesn't slow the power like some modern cars do, when there is less demand. ![]() Seems if one was the break away switch, it would not complete the circuit, unless the break way tab was removed, right?Īnd what else can one do to improve the "charging power" of vehicle to trailer? I have a red and a white line run to the brakes and I am not sure if the white is the ground or the break away, back up power, and they are auto grounded to the chassis in a way that I can't see.Ī muliti meter shows a completed circuit when I test those lines, when they are connected to nothing else. I cant find where the break away switch is tied in to them. I'd prefer to avoid janky fire replacement, but the the only way I can think of, would be to replace the fuse that protects that circuit with a jumper wire that puts ignition hot power from the aftermarket isolator to the circuit, and move the fuse into the ignition hot jumper.Īnd while we are at it, if I have a good battery in my trailer, do I need to have the little one that is dedicated to the breakaway brake? That battery has been long dead, and it seems silly to replace it, if I have power from a better source.Īslo, I think my trailer brakes are an afterthought, and I am not sure they are wired right. Truck is a 2019 3500 with tow package, if it matters.īut how do you limit the 7 pin 12V+ to being ignition hot, so the trailer or whatever can't drain the engine batteries? You’ll break something.I've installed isolators in my third gens for campers, but I think I cheated by just running a new dedicated 12v wire to the camper batteries and dropping he 12V + from the 7 pin connector. The downside to a threaded link is if you pull away without disconnecting it won’t bend. Where I live the roads are so filled with potholes I’ve had the s hook bounce off. As long as the cable is shorter than the distance of the chains when it drops it will work fine. It won’t, it only actuates if it comes un hitched. How would adding 1/2” of length to the cable change anything at all with the actuation. It's also a PITA with the boat on but it can be done. Sounds like a lot and it is, but it's not terrible. If the hoses and lines appear ok, next is bleeding the brakes and adjusting the shoes to the hubs. Rebuild kits are available but I generally just replace the whole thing. With any luck, the actuator isn't froze but not likely. Replace the cylinders, maybe the shoes, and some hardware. My guess.you will have drum brakes and the wheel cylinders are frozen. If disc, they resemble automotive disc brakes and are self explanatory. If it is drum brakes, the hubs have to come off. Either way, the wheels will have to be removed. Now, at the wheels.you could have disc or drum brakes. ![]() Considering that you didn't know you had brakes.I am sure that the actuator is dry if not full of water. If the trailer moves without issue, then the brakes simply are not working. If it was easy to bend, it wouldn't serve it's purpose very well. You will have to remove the actuator to service it. Eagle integrated it into the tongue for appearance. Most actuators are mounted above the tongue and all the above would be in plain view. The cable is generally attached to a lever on the actuator that when pulled, activates the brakes. Now the cable is similar to your emergency break cable in your car but different because it does not go all the way to your wheels. When the cable is pulled with force (usually when you pull away and forget to disconnect it), the brakes are activated and the clip keeps the cable extended, keeping the brakes from releasing. The metal clip on the breakaway cable is designed to be inside the actuator. Don't do it! Now, as I mentioned previously. The length of that cable is key to when the brakes react. The adding a link to the breakaway cable.bad idea. I like this threaded chain link idea and I’ll be putting one on my breakaway cable as well. Update it def has brakes as you all pointed out, just don’t think it was pulled enough obviously to make them kick in.
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