![]() I like to use these measuring bars, they are accurate, easy to use and super handy. Make sure to isolate the bearing and ensure there is just enough clearance around the fence for the bit to clean and not cut into the fence. Install your Tongue bit into your router table. You can mark the fronts and the backs with anything you want, but don't skip this step. ![]() I like to use blue masking tape, it stands out, is easily removed and doesn't leave any residue. There could be slight variations in your tongue and groove setting and if you don't keep them consistent you can spoil an otherwise good door. The reason you want to do this is so you don't get mixed up in either cutting them or gluing them up at assembly time. When you are making doors, it's very important to mark your pieces in terms of which parts are the front and which are the back. You just need to take the width of both stiles away, then add back the total tongue length, so. let us say you want a door that is 10 inches wide. Once you know the tongue length, and assuming you are working with 2-inch wide door frame components, here's how to figure out the math. This part is critical to know before you begin making the door. The Freud, Adjustable Rail and Stile set #99-036 uses a 7/8 inch tongue length, as do some other brands, but you really need to check any of them to make sure before you start. To confirm this, it's best to cut a couple of test tongues, match them together to see how much space they require. First, you need to know how long the tongues need to be on the bit set. Figuring out how long the stiles need to be is easy if you are working with 2-inch wide frame components. Depending on the router bit set you are using, you will have to adjust your cuts to account for the Tongue of the rails that will become the glue into the rails to make the door joints. Rails, the horizontal frame pieces, are another story. Whatever length of door you want to make, that is how long the stiles need to be. The Stiles of the frames, the vertical frame pieces do not need any particular treatment. If you are using jointed wood, make sure you cut off the snipe if there is any or us your table saw with an excellent ripping blade, otherwise the snipe can show up in your corner joints. I prefer to cut them on my table saw using my Freud Glue Line Rip blade because it does not leave any "jointer snipe". Most of the doors I make are with 3/4 inch material, but thicker is fine too, as long as it is all consistently the same thickness. I like to use a wood that is 2 inches wide for cabinet door frames. it's easy to make pretty much any size and any quantity. Once you understand the process and have made a few doors, it's not only fun. The first time I was shown how to make doors on the router table I couldn't believe it was so easy. Either way, the setup is identical and the results are consistent. You can make production runs or just one door. The nice thing about using the router and router table to make cabinet doors is you can make as many or as few as you like. Like many things in woodworking, there are many different ways of making things and cabinet doors are no different.
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